No please or thank you…a regular cry from many children…on the way to the market, on the way home from work, outside the front door, anywhere actually.   The adults are more subtle but I do wonder if I have £ signs on my forehead sometimes….

A letter today from a student requesting money to open a stationery shop to sell paper, folders, photocopying and printing facilities…Not content with one business he also wishes to open a recording studio and buy farmland to cultivate and grow a wide variety of vegetables on…he didn’t ask for any goats or cattle, so I suppose that’s one thing…

On a more serious note – I met a young woman in February who came to my door quite desperate and felt that she had nowhere else to turn.   I was a wee bit frazzled on that particular day (looking after Mijs who had malaria next door) so I asked the girl to write her situation/request down and visit me the day after.

Pilirani is a 19 year old village girl, third born child and has 3 younger siblings.   Her father lives in another district with her 2 older brothers and her mother has remarried locally.   Her mother (Magdalena) and step-father are both farmers with minimal income…what they grow is what they eat or exchange for other food stuffs.

Magdalena, Paul, Helen, cousin, Cecilia, auntie and Pilirani

Pilirani had passed her MSCE (Malawi School Certificate of Education) with flying colours, a very clever girl, and had secured a place at DAPP teaching college in Blantyre.   However, the college is fee paying and Pilirani and her mother had searched high and low for potential donors/alternative income but to no avail.   On visiting Charlie McGill (Scotsman in next village who runs a youth centre) he pointed her in my direction.    Magdalena explained to me that she cried when Pilirani was offered a place at teaching college – not tears of joy but tears of sadness because she did not know how they would find money to support her.    A woman of great faith (she attends the Catholic Church, sings in the choir and is never without her rosary beads) she believes that God sent me to her; they had prayed together the night before Pilirani visited me.   I don’t know if God had anything to do with that but each time I visit Magdalena she lets me know that she prays for me and my family every day.   Making light of it – last time she mentioned it – “Do you think he hears you Magdalena?”  [me]    ”Of course, he sent me you”  [Magdalena]   “Well next time you speak to him tell him I would like a nice man and a baby please”   She was doubled up with laughter – “What’s so funny Magdalena?” [me]   “Ah, you Fiona – do you just want one child?” [her]   “Yes, think I am getting too old for more than one”    She laughed all the way back up the road…didn’t think it was that funny….

Anyhow, I managed to visit Pilirani at the college last week.   A very well maintained building, DAPP’s philosophy is to train teachers that will teach in rural areas of Malawi where there is a great need for improving access to primary and secondary education.   I met the assistant principal and set up arrangement to continue supporting Pilirani through her studies for the next 2 years.   I will be sent quarterly reports on her progress and have told her that she will need to continue to work hard for me to support her – words of encouragement I hope!

As well as allowing Pilirani to become a teacher, this input will support Magdalena and her younger children (Helen, Cecilia and Paul) in the future.   It is very common for wage earners in Malawi to continue to support their parents and siblings…and hopefully when Pilirani is earning she can then support her younger siblings through their education too…

My mum, dad, Laura and Lucy all met Magdalena and her children – a very beautiful and kind women, and despite her obvious poverty, she gave them all lovely straw hats which are now back in Scotland.    I will keep in touch by letter with Magdalena and hope that I get the opportunity to meet her again…

 

PS Going back to the £ signs on my head – in Malawi fatness is a sign of wealth and strength…not going to dwell too much on that 🙂

 

This poemwas written by Sally Young…and brought many laughs (and tears) at my work’s leaving do last September…a year already!?!?!   Of course, I brought it with me and have had a wee chuckle at it often but thought it was time the poem was published Sally – with my comments of course 🙂

 Oh dear what can the matter be?

Fiona has gone and left chemotherapy

She was here from Monday to Friday

Now she’s going off to Malawi

(In that year I know that Zoe has done a grand job of moving the team forward,  Trish T has moved  to the colorectal team and the CNS’s are all have to review their wardrobe’s to keep up with Trish’s glamorous look!!!    Julie, Karen and Suzie are holding the fort (with a wee weekend in Glencoe thrown in! – need a Part 2 girls!), Davie T is a hit with the patients,  Susan C and Allana have joined the team and Jo is now a proud mum…but she’ll be back soon too I hope:)

                                          

Oh dear what can the matter be?

How will Fiona cope with her OCD

Not much water and a strange kind of lavatory

When she goes off to Malawi

(I am/was more than pleased with my house in Fatima– have a flushing toilet and a shower!   However, the OCD has obviously been wilting as Laura took a photograph of the toilet bowl on her visit– stained brown and not coming off – I tried the bleach, TCP and toothbrush trick- but I’ve obviously gotten used to it was surprised when she pointed it out!…so OCD definitely less so…)

 Oh dear what can the matter be?

It’ll be hot, about 50 degrees

She’ll perspire from Monday to Saturday

When she lives oot in Malawi

(Photograph says it all I’m sure…getting hot again…)

Oh dear what can the matter be?

The big 5, mosquitoes and dysentery

She’ll lost weight from Monday to Saturday

When she is oot in Malawi

(Ha, no such luck I’m afraid and have only taken 2 Immodium since my arrival!…escaped Malaria –so far…keeping fingers crossed)

 Oh dear what can the matter be?

Practice safe sex if you feel frisky

You don’t want a baby or an STD

When you come back from Malawi

(No babies or STD’s – what do you expect when you live in a nunnery 😉

 Oh dear what can the matter be?

I feel sorry for the nuns in the nunnery

Their beads they’ll be swinging, no hymns they’ll be singing

When Fiona takes over Malawi

(Oh hymns I’ve been singing – not in the nunnery but at the Assemblies of God – thanks to Evelyn P I will leave a lovely book of children’s bible stories with Emily and the children.   Trish T for sending me ideas and crafts from Lynne P – the kids have loved colouring in and eating the jelly babies of course! And my mum for reminding me of all those Sunday school songs – Deep and Wide, He’s got the whole world in his hands, My cup is full and running over…so, as well as me really enjoying myself at Sunday school the kids English has come on leaps and bounds 🙂

 Oh dear what can the matter be?

What will she do from Monday to Saturday

Smoke her fags, drink whiskey and read shades of Grey

When Fiona is oot in Malawi

(A good Scotswoman will always find her favourite tipple – imaginative and adaptable…good qualities of a VSO volunteer ;)…and the Kindle?   A fantastic leaving gift from the chemo team – would rather lose my right arm than the kindle…well maybe just the left arm…)

 

 Oh dear what can the matter be?

I hear she’ll have a night guard for her safety

He’ll be kept busy from Monday to Saturday

Behind the net curtain in Malawi

(Moffat, Moffat what can I say??   No need for the net curtain in Malawi, but he does ensure our safety!   His snoring would frighten the Mitchel Brothers…)

 Oh dear what can the matter be?

We’ll all miss her from Oncology

We’ll blog her from Monday to Saturday

When she’s oot in Malawi

(Thank you to everyone who has kept in touch with me…Evelyn your letters have been fantastic…always very encouraging and you usually make me cry – must be the palliative care nurse in you!   I tried, in vain, to keep in touch with family and Trish T via Skype but the Fatima connection just wasn’t playing with that…since the loan of Judy’s smart phone I have been able to keep in touch via Facebook more which has been great…Facetime in Blantyre has allowed me to see Laura and Lucy’s faces quite often which is always a treat 🙂

 Oh dear what can the matter be?

We think you’re fab and we’re dead proud of ye

We’ll all miss you from Oncology

When you are oot in Malawi

Oh dear, well that’s 11 months gone and I still really miss ye

Although, the last year has been a fantastic opportunity

The best year of my life, without any dysentery

I’ll leave a big part of my heart in Malawi

****************

 

 

find it easier and quicker to add photos from phone, so sorry if fragmented!!

rolled up for the wedding

Emily

at nsanje port

Judy and I travelled to Nsanje Boma last week to supervise some of the first year students. It was a great opportunity to visit another hospital – this time a district hospital, government run. We travelled from Blantyre as we had been at a colleagues’ wedding that weekend. A Malawian wedding… certainly different to a typical Scottish wedding! The service started at 8am then folks go home/do whatever they have to do then return for the reception around 2pm. Judy and I skipped the church service and got ourselves dolled up for the reception in the afternoon. A couple of glasses of wine whilst getting ready fair put us in the mood for a good dance and a wedding. The good dance? Well, as long as you have a lot of money in your pocket you can get a dance. The hall is set out in rows of chairs, lovely decoration and flamboyant clothing [think gypsy wedding…] and the stage holds chairs for the bride, groom and wedding party. The bridesmaids, best man and ushers dance their way down the aisle…followed by the bridge and groom. Then the MC starts. Each family/group/work colleagues/sets of friends etc are called up to the dance floor to congratulate and dance with the newlyweds. During this dance guests are expected to throw money at the bride and groom – for the duration of the song!! Thankfully, we had been forewarned and knew to change big notes into smaller notes. I had asked the groom the week before if his brother was best man…he had replied no…thought it a wee bit strange because I know that the groom and brother are very close. However, all became clear at the wedding. There was so much money being thrown around the happy couple that you needed cashiers. Yes, the groom’s brother and bride’s sister had the very daunting job of counting the money then allowing guests to cash in bigger notes to buy more smaller notes – very similar to a casino I felt. After the first hour and a half the MC was starting to bit desperate [he gets commission – a cut of the winnings] “Anyone who can write the letter A come up and dance!” “Anyone who uses Facebook or WhatsApp come up and dance!” “Any fat people come up and dance!” Yes, no kidding – and some girls were running up to that stage – proud as punch!!! Can you imagine how that would go down at home J By this time, I was parched – the heat was tremendous and no drinks to be seen [soft or alcohol] – at a wedding too!!! Judy, Nyack and I were just thinking about taking our leave when we were informed that a drink and snack was on its way…a very welcome Coke, a samosa, a chicken drumstick and a wee fairy cake. Went down a treat – but I was really wanting a glass of wine. It was a great day and I can see the logic in it…weddings at home are so expensive for the bride and groom (feeding and watering us all day!) but actually it’s the newlyweds who need the money so I am sure they made a wee fortune that day J I am curious and plan to ask the groom when he returns to work…

Anyhow, Nsanje – after a lovely relaxing Sunday in Blantyre Judy and I caught a minibus to Nsanje last Monday morning. A fairly straightforward journey, we arrived in Nsanje around 2pm. I had called one of the students the week before to book ‘nice’ accommodation for us in the form of the “Discovery Lodge”. Think dodgy motel [chalked body outline] seen in seedy 1970 movies. However, this IS the best accommodation in Nsanje and I thanked Jogiat profusely for booking it for us. After a lunch of nsima and goat and a quick shower we donned our uniforms and walked the sweltering 100m to the hospital. Emily met us there and gave us a quick orientation of the hospital. First impressions – a lovely welcoming small hospital, very clean and friendly staff. An OPD, paediatrics OPD, theatre, X-Ray, male ward, female ward, paediatric ward, maternity ward and TB ward – this hospital provides free care to the local community and its neighbouring Mozambique. The students were really pleased to see us – and it was great to see them after 7 weeks! We spent a couple of hours then headed back to Discovery Lodge making plans for who was doing what the following morning. Over a meal of rice and chicken and a Kuche Kuche [thank goodness it had something going for it!] we got chatting to an NGO driver working with a group tackling HIV/STI issues in Nsanje. He informed us that his group had arranged a workshop that evening with the sex workers of Nsanje. The “Discovery Lodge” was an ideal venue for their workshop as this is where the women-of-ill-repute operate from. Great…that called for another Kuche Kuche…

Off to bed around 9pm, we fell into a sound sleep…after Judy commenting on how lovely and clean the bed sheets looked…mmm. Just after midnight we were both wide awake, the place was like Sauchiehall Street – comings and goings, children shouting, [what sounded like] 10 men outside the bedroom window [no glass, just mesh] having a lively chat, motorbike being revved up – the only sound I didn’t hear was chickens or goats! We must have fallen asleep again because we were awake again just after 4am with another group of men congregating outside the bedroom ‘mesh’. Around 6am I headed to the shower – cold water, tiles missing and half a curtain on the ‘mesh’ to protect the modesty…it woke me up that’s for sure! We got dressed and went to the restaurant for breakfast – the place was chock-a-block! [Judy] “Where have all these people come from? No wonder there was so much noise through the night…” Breakfast was a boiled egg, chips and 2 slices of bread – great breakfast [and the same for the next 3
mornings so good job I enjoyed it J]

Off to the hospital, we were there at 0730 for morning report – very educational and very lengthy! The report finished around 0900 and I headed to OPD where I would spend the day with the students. A very busy morning – young men in for IV Vincristine [Kaposi’s Sarcoma], some catheter changes, skull suturing and 18 rabies vaccinations. That is not a typo – 18 rabies vaccinations. Very baffled by this turn of events I discussed it with the Clinical Officer. The current recommendation in Nsanje district – if someone is bitten by a dog they are referred to Nsanje District Hospital for a course of Rabies injections on Day 0, 3, 7, 14 and 28. [me] “How do you know if the dogs have rabies?” [him] “We don’t, but the Health Surveillance Assistants in the region have been told to send people to hospital for the treatment”. [me] “Do you see the bites? Are you sure they have been bitten?” [him] “No we don’t see the bites but we treat them anyway”. [me] “Mmmm, do you think all these people have actually been bitten by a dog?” [looking through the ‘Rabies
Vaccination Register’ between 15-30 people are coming in each day for this treatment]. [him] “No, I think the people are biting the dogs!” Funny, but…got me thinking….each vaccination is costing 4800MKW (£10) – £50 per course…very expensive by Malawian standards – are these people pretending to have been bitten so that they can come to hospital and get a ‘free’ drug??? Not sure…and didn’t get the opportunity to discuss this situation with the DNO which I regret now…

The paediatric OPD appeared to be a fantastic set up. Two clinical officers reviewing patients, a malaria testing station in the corner and a medication dispensing station in the other means that mothers and babies have a one-stop-shop. No moving between departments with unnecessary waits, mothers and kids are moved through a very swift and efficient service. Vaccinations are also given at this department, antenatal care provision, HIV testing and counselling and a palliative care room [not sure
what went on in here as was closed on the day of my visit] – quite an impressive set up and the students thoroughly enjoyed their time here.

Emily and I finished at 430 pm and took a stroll to Nsanje Port – think Falkirk Wheel (minus the wheel) this is a lovely area to walk to/cycle and see nice views of the Shire. Built around 3 years ago this Port has not been a success for a variety of ‘vague’ reasons – bigger boats unable to travel up through Malawi to Mozamique because of bridges further up the river, lack of funding and external support etc It’s a shame – the roads leading to the Port are just like home – tarmacadam, yellow lines, crash barriers the lot! I’m sure if this Port was operational it would bring much needed business and activity to the Nsanje region. Emily and I parted ways and I headed back to the motel on Shapa – again, a smooth Shapa ride on a tarred road!! During this lovely afternoon stroll and cycle Judy was donating her O neg blood. Apparently the people of Nsanje have a great fear of donating blood – superstition, myths and perhaps fear of screening… This has resulted in MBTS (Malawi Blood Transfusion Service) delivering very little blood to Nsanje because it gets nothing in return. At report that morning we had been told of a woman with a fungating, bleeding tumour in her leg – her only chance of survival was amputation of the limb. However, the CO could not operate because there was no O type blood available and the lady had a Hb of 2… Judy very kindly offered to donate some blood and managed to persuade a student with O blood to go along with her – resulting in 2 units of O neg blood for the woman! We had another meal of rice and chicken that night…and a couple of Kuche Kuche – noise ditto.

Judy woke the following morning to find a lovely trail of bites over her tummy – bed bugs – the sheets might have been clean but the mattress is not…after her donating that blood too…

After a good scratch, and a breakfast of boiled egg, chips and bread we returned to the hospital to find the ‘Ground Round’ had commenced. A very forward thinking teaching hospital; the ground round has all medical personnel, nursing personnel and students [what an entourage!] doing a ‘hospital round’. This involves cases of interest in each ward/department – so, you can imagine how long this round may take. As I say, great in theory but who is looking after the actual patients during this procession? We came across a young girl with a massive abdomen, arms and legs skin and bone – a poor soul. They had exhausted all avenues with her, investigation and treatment wise, and planned to refer her to Queen’s. Although they have biopsy facilities and certain laboratory tests NDH is not able to test for malignant cells – they were querying a malignant mass or cirrhosis of the liver. In the male ward – an elderly gentleman had been admitted the previous night with what looked like, on first appearance, multiple crocodile bites. However, the poor man had been attacked with a machete – accused of witchcraft. His arms were in a terrible mess, hands barely intact – very disturbing. He was taken to theatre and spent most of the day there with little success – he was also being transferred to Queen’s for further management – a 4 hour journey on a hot and dusty road. I spent time in the female ward and observed 2 students dressing extensive burns – a woman had fallen into a fire and burnt from knee to toe – through to tendon the wound was remarkably clean – good old Eusol and honey! After Judy’s selfless offer the day before, I thought it only right that I should also offer a pint of my blood (crappy A pos – but hopefully good for somebody!). I managed to persuade 2 of the students to come along with me but unfortunately one tested positive for malaria and the other had been on malaria medication 2 weeks previously so this put them out of the running. I did buy us 3 cokes tho’ in preparation so they had their coke and returned to the ward. For those of you who know me well [and know how much of a wimp I am when it comes to needles!] you would have been impressed…I sat in the crowded lab reception, applied my own tourniquet (no rubber glove for me thank you!) and then held the needle in whilst it drained off 500mls of my blood onto a bag on the floor – needed the Coke after that! Met Judy and we strolled down to Nsanje Port, walked back through the town, bought some chtengies [must stop
buying now as will have NO room in my rucksack] and a couple of bread rolls – no rice or nsima tonight! Chicken and crisps on a roll washed down with a Kuche Kuche – just what the doctor ordered J

Thursday morning and we were back on the minibus to Blantyre. An eventful journey [when are they not?] we had a flat tyre (driver’s side rear), it was pumped up and then we were back on the gravel. [I am sitting in the driver’s side rear and heard a hissing of air] “Judy, that tyre is flat again” No sign of the driver slowing down…”Mmm, maybe not, must be my imagination, but the minibus is swaying a bit” Five minutes later – we screech to a halt…”Yip, that tyre is blown” Clambered off the bus, lost my flip flop in the process…[big woman in
front wasn’t for moving] to inspect the state of the tyre – don’t know how we didn’t go off the road – it was mangled. Tyre changed we are on the road again. At the next trading centre we stop whilst the driver gets a new tyre and the spare blown up. We reached Blantyre around 230pm leaving me an hour to spare before catching the next bus to Lilongwe. After a welcome seat and a cold drink I headed back to the bus depot – “The bus is delayed by one hour” “Okay, I will go and get something to eat and come back at 5pm” “Ah, but madam, it may come before 5 o’clock” “You just told me it would be an hour and it is now 4pm” “Mmmm, maybe you should just wait here” Starving, I decide to live dangerously and rush back up the road to join Judy in Ryall’s for a burger and a large glass of red wine. Finish it by 455pm and head back down to the bus depot. No sign of the bus…”it will be here in 20 mins” take a seat…6pm – no bus “It will be here in 30 mins” getting dark, legs are sore and stiff after this mornings escapade and my bum is sore from sitting on a brick…6 45pm no bus…I GIVE UP I am defeated – my first defeat by Malawi transport…I head to Doris’s house in Blantyre to spend the night there before heading back down the road I came up today! Friday night around 6pm arrived back in Fatima – if any of you fancy catching the bus down to London for the day or maybe sitting on the back of a tractor up to John O Groats just give me a shout – I’m sure I’ll be up for it! J

PS In an emergency call Jesus, PO Box 333, Jerusalem…the very reassuring sign above the entrance to “Discovery Lodge”

a nice way to spend saturday afternoon…with Magdalena at her home, watching choir rehearsal for Bishop’s visit tomorrow then getting water from the borehole with the kids

Cockerels cockle-doodle-dooing, groups of women chatting as they walk down the hill by the side of the house with massive pails on their heads holding bananas, maize cobs, sweet potato and cassava on the way to market, goats baa-ing and cows moo-ing on the way to scarce green pastures…I open one eye (the non-lazy one) and peer at the time on my phone – 0557 hours…it is Saturday morning, I think I will try and get another hour’s sleep…

“Fiona, Fiona” “paper, clayon, paper” “baloonee” “sweetie” …open the good eye again – it’s now 0745 hours – result! A long lie for a Saturday… I pull the mosquito net out from under the mattress and put my feet into my well-worn purple flip-flops (£1 from B&M store – bargain!) and shuffle through to the toilet. I have a wee piddle but don’t flush – the water is very scarce in the morning (the girls’ hostel using the same supply and all washing and showering at the same time) – so I don’t flush until I have too…if you know what I mean.

Wandering through to the kitchen there is an ominous silence…mmm, the fridge is quiet which means the fridge is off which means there is no power. “Do I need a coffee this morning or will a Sobo do?” “Mmm, coffee I think…” So, out the back door, gather some charcoal from the sack and sit it in the mbaula. 5 plastic bags later and a lot of vigorous fanning with a plastic bin lid, I have a respectable heat gathering…the charcoal is burning. I pull a long sleeved top over my nightie to open the front door and give James, Andrew, Lamek, Sunga and wee Robert some paper and crayons. It will now take about 15 mins for the smoke to stop but that doesn’t stop me from heating the water – smoky coffee is fine by me…will wait before putting Judy’s last 2 cinnamon rolls on tho’. Just as the water is beginning to boil the power comes back on.

I fill the laundry basin with soapy water (still some hot water left over from last night’s tank) and begin washing my 2 chtengies (I bought them during my first week in Malawi – turquoise, green and brown and I want to bring them home with me – sentimental value I know!) which have been covering the sofa and dining table… Lots of candle wax on one which is beyond my hand washing capabilities so I am hoping that the good old Indesit washing machine at home will do the trick J Coffee drank [or drunk?] never sure…and cinnamon rolls eaten I put up the wooden iron-board and iron my 2 white nurse dresses. Can’t believe how white they have stayed…even Laura commented on their whiteness and no DAZ here…

I don’t bother with a shower because I plan to be busy in the garden today and it is hot and dusty so I will just wait until tonight. I sweep the back yard (lots of leaves to gather which have fallen from the trees – remember it is winter here) with the small home-made sweeper of branches tied with string – it is more effective than you would think, and I place the newly-repaired garden chair in a strategic spot for me to catch some sun and read my kindle later on today.

Face washed and hair pulled back in a hair band (newly cut fringe annoying me already!!) I set off for the market. Lamek, Robert and Sunga decide that they should come with me…they’ll be hoping for a wee 50MKW for sweeties I’m sure but they will also help me carry stuff back which is fine. I plan to nip into the hospital on the way by to check that 2 students (who have 2 days to make up) are working in the female/male ward…they will try and ‘cheat you’ (Malawi expression meaning take the mickey). However, on my way in I meet Catherine, a Nurse Tutor from the college, who is also on her way to the market and I postpone my ‘spot check’ for the return journey and walk with Catherine to the market. We chat about her recent provisional offer to Queen Margaret’s University, Edinburgh to do her Masters; however, she has not been successful so far in securing any funding for this course – £12,000 – so it is looking like she will not manage to take up her placement offer. She is a single mother with a son at secondary school and can only afford to put one of them through education and, of course, she is choosing her son. £12,000 is a lot of money by anyone’s standards so I don’t know how she will ever manage without donors…

She is heading to the market to buy plastic buckets for her flowers so we have a wee chat about that. She wants her buckets to match, whereas we have red, green and blue buckets, paint pots and old oil drums…brightens the place up I think J The road to the market is very sandy, uneven and dusty. They have recently upgraded the road after the rainy season and I am sure it will soon be impacted and better but at the moment not easy to walk on and if a car/lorry goes by you get a mouthful of dust. Even the Shapa cyclists are struggling and dismounting and walking…

We part ways at the market and I head to my tailor to collect a skirt that I had been measured for the week before. A nice red, black, white and orange chtenge material; he has made me a below the knee skirt with 8 panels and black lining…I’m thinking that it will be a nice winter skirt and will go well with my long boots when I come home (see, I am beginning to think ahead!).

I then buy some tomatoes from a woman who I meet at church each Sunday and she is very pleased that I have bought from her and proceeds to tell her friends about me. “Ah” they exclaim. I can’t type how “ah” is said in Chichewa but I will give my version when I come home – it is the opposite of our “oh” [starts with a low tone and finishes on a high tone – quite funny and spotted
within the first week by Mariam – gave us endless laughs after a few
wines!!] Tomatoes back down in price as in season – 20MKW each = 4p

I then hunted high and low for decent sized onions – mostly all small spring onions at the moment – but eventually found some at 50MKW each – 10p. Also bought some ground nuts (monkey nuts to you and I) which are also in season but nearing the end of season…will miss those…especially roasted in the oven with some salt. A few cries of “Azungo – give me my money!” No use of the word please in Chichewa…so you can imagine that phrase doesn’t really win me over. I finish my shopping trip with a quick visit to one of the few shops and buy a kilo of white flour and some eggs – 80p for the flour and 90p for 6 eggs (more expensive than Tesco value at my last estimation).

I gave Sunga 100MKW to go and buy bananas and that was the last I seen of them until I was home – so much for helping with the groceries…

On the way back I popped into the hospital to check that Suzanna and Emily were indeed on duty. As luck would have it they were both on tea break but I was assured by the nurse in charge that she did have 2 students working…”I’m not conversant with their names tho” Okay, I assume it will be those two, who else would choose to work on a Saturday…?

I get home and find Lamek and Andrew lurking by the door waiting for a cartoon. “You’ll have to help me first” The eyes light up – they love a job. So, hand fork and trowel in hand I give them 3 buckets and a paint pot and tell them to go and half fill with decent soil/sand. We then use some of the better fertilized soil from the garden and transplant some flowers and plant some more seeds (Aubergine, Butternut Squash, Courgette and Peppers). We then pick some Chinese cabbage and Rape (pronounced Lape) which I give to Deborah for her mother. There is then rubbish to be burned and that is a job for James (the oldest). There is an old frying pan which I have never needed to use but seems quite heavy duty – just needs a good clean probably! I give it to Lamek to take it to his mother. He bombs away up the hill, frying pan in hand with a big smile on his face. I know you shouldn’t have favourites but I do…I will miss Lamek and his cheeky wee face. If a toy gets broken or there is a fight he is usually in the middle of it, although less so now! I’ve seen the wrong side of his temper a few times…I wonder how his home life is and keep smiling and encouraging him and I do see a wee change in his behaviour in the last few months.

Garden done (for the meantime – can’t water until after 4pm as too hot beforehand) I send the children off and tell them to come back at 2pm for a cartoon. I come in to make a tuna and cheese toastie for lunch (it is Saturday after all! – thank you Laura for the toastie machineJ). Sit down for half an hour with my kindle and lovely toastie then think…I wonder if I could shut my eyes until 2pm… 1 40pm – “Fiona, Fiona cartoone” “It’s too early – it’s not 2 o’clock yet” Lots of whispering chatter at the door as they queue up to see who gets the 2 stools (the rest sit on the veranda) when I open the door. [What’s the point Fiona, just get up off the couch] I open the door “Ye cannae get a minute’s peace here!” Lots of blank faces looking at me, in a queue as they try to elbow each other out of the way for a stool. I laugh… “Okay, The Avengers today” Big cheers of “yeah!!” Lap top on (they are ecstatic because it is Judy’s laptop which is about twice the size of my wee netbook), Avengers started I head through to the kitchen to prepare chilli for tonight and make some pitta breads (attempt 2).

The mince is browning and I’m thinking what veg can I put in this [except for the standard onion and tomato]? “Fiona, come” [the kids] Fred, the bottle man is looking for some bottles to sell at the market – he is in luck…an empty Sobo bottle and a gin bottle [thank goodness for Fred!] Back to the kitchen, think I will pull some pak choi from the garden to add to the chilli [Mexican/Chinese?] So, chilli simmering away it is now late enough to go and water the garden. Deborah manages to carry a basin full of water on her head from the back door round to the garden and I waddle with a large pail in one hand – I wish I could carry on my head – looks much easier [well, the women make it look easy…] Garden watered and Avenger’s finished – great – peace for the night…

I settle down with the now cooked chilli, a brandy and coke and watch Skyfall. I’m not a big James Bond fan but thought that was the best 007 movie yet – really enjoyed it J Around 8pm the door is chapped – Moffat [the
night guard] has arrived and reporting for duty! I give him out his bag with pot, blanket, pillow [I know – you’d think a night guard would be awake for the night eh –
what’s the point otherwise!?!?], water and a couple of teabags. He starts off his night sweeping around the house and settles down in the veranda or drain around 9pm, snoring like a warthog by 10pm! I can only hope that he just has a couple of hours…anyhow, I hear him sweeping again around 4am so he is up. I’m in bed for 11pm and alarm set for 0745 to get ready for church…

0710 hours – I wake up before the alarm [sods law eh?] so decide to get up anyway. Since I have time to spare I give my new rollers [yes, I treated myself to some rollers when last in Blantyre – must
have been Laura’s always-perfected-coiffure that spurred me on!] a try. Rollers in, I have some chocolate cereal [left over by Lucy] with fruit and nut mix [present from Linsey] – a lovely breakfast!

I leave the house around 0845 and walk to church…passing the hospital and market on the way…the road is as bad as yesterday so bottom of dress thick with stoor by the time I reach the church [community hall] Lynley rushes to take my bag from me [a custom here that students or children will carry your
bags/laptop/books etc for you – definitely a bonus!], I get a cuddle from Thoko and wee Hannah rushes over to sit on my lap – what a welcome! Definitely worth the early rise and dusty walk. Today is baptism day and the pastor will baptise around 15 people down at the Tangatze River. So, in preparation for the baptism the children and I practice the song “Deep and Wide” To get them to sing louder I split them into 2 groups and say that there will be a prize for the loudest singers – it always works! Around 0930hours a pick-up truck arrives and the pastor, secretary and the congregation start to pile on. There are about 30 people in the pick-up truck and it sets off, leaning precariously to one side…The women, children, Emily and I start walking to the river – about a 30 minute walk away. It is a lovely morning and I would prefer to walk than tip myself into the back of the spluttering pick-up. However, he does make a 3rd run and we are all piled in to the back of the truck with only 10 mins to walk…

On reaching the Tangatze, Pastor George is already in the river up to his knees [good trousers on too!] and the soon-to-be baptized are queuing up at the riverside. It was a wonderful morning, singing, clapping, chanting, children bathing and grandmothers looking on by the side.

The children and I walk back to church [“Oh no, I’m happy to walk – you carry on in the car, I’ll walk with the
kids” – phew] So, our 30 min walk passed quickly by singing “He’s got the whole world in his hands”, “Deep and Wide”, “You are my sunshine”, “Old Noah in the Ark” and a new song that they taught me [not one for Sunday school – “look to the east, look to the west, now
shake your bum for the best” – lots of giggling going on…]

Back in church and Pastor George is preaching about how we should fear God – “God can kill you if he wants, but the devil can’t. The devil can give you diseases like HIV and high BP but only God chooses when you die. So, be God fearing” Mmmm…got me thinking, does that mean if the devil is responsible for HIV and high BP we don’t take responsibility for our actions? Is this what people believe…? I think I preferred church before they translated into English – I just sang and clapped and was in blissful ignorance!

Leaving church at 1230 hours [it’s a long morning] I buy some cheesy puffs from the market then head home exhausted and starving [not literally of course]. I have some rice left over from last night’s chilli and have it with some tuna and mayonnaise then try and get a wee half hour on the couch…1330 hours “Fiona, Fiona, Cartoone”…try and ignore it and shut my eyes but to no avail…Cinderella Trilogy today [I and II] I prepare a pancake mix for 25 kids and make a start on a lentil curry soup and home-made bread for tonight’s dinner [Nyack
returning from Blantyre so will cook for him – you are fit for nothing after
that journey so a meal made for you is always nice J] Soup bubbling away, cheese and black ground pepper bread in the oven , pancakes made and distributed fairly I start filling the water pails to get the garden done. I also empty the ashes from yesterday’s mbaula and fruit and veg peeling into the compost heap…help from Deborah and Mary again. We then play skipping ropes while the boys watch the cartoon, the cartoon finishes then they want the pump to inflate the football…1700 hours – “Right, bas [enough], pita kunyumba kwano [go to your homes], Ndi kufuna kupuma [I want to
rest/peace!]

Nyack arrives around 7ish – bearing gifts from Blantyre – some carrots, milk, oranges and an apple. Nyack enjoys his soup and bread – we can’t play cards as Judy has them on holiday – this is a good thing…he is a bad loser! Nyack leaves, the door goes – it’s Moffat….

Look out pens, fob watch, scissors, forceps [toolkit] for the morning and fall into bed about 9pm…alarm set for 0630 hours…will sleep well, always do!

Arriving in Malawi

After an ubber long journey from Heathrow to J,Burg then onto Blantyre, we arrived. Amy, the Scottish gal we met on the plane (physio student from Glasgow out to teach English for a month) unfortunately did not get her suitcase when we landed. The day was Saturday, next fight due….Wednesday. She only had the clothes she was standing in and they wouldn’t change her Scottish notes…I am sure the exchange rate was the same as the rest of the UK that day, but maybe not. Mark swapped English money for her and her penpal was there to meet her.

Heard my name being shouted and there was Fiona – such a welcome sight indeed. Off to Doogles for a long overdue catch up and a wee drink or 2. Haggis crisps for Fiona fae Mark which she ate with great joy! McCoy’s to come (salt n vinegar). A good night’s sleep by all, then as Fiona has already written, a later start then planned, but Lawrence did turn up at last. Tyre change; spanner found, jack located, then off to Lake Malawi. Mark was treated to the back catalogue of West Life; I had no idea they had made so many same sounding music. 4 hrs of that and I think his ears were bleeding…Michael Learns to Rock then played for a few songs and took Fi and I back to times in Riyadh circa late 90’s. I don’t think that music was to Mark’s taste either!

Lake Malawi

Anyway, Lake Malawi (Cape McClear) – fab view indeed and the ‘Jewel in the Crown of the countries attractions’ so say most. Bilharzia was a massive hiccup to me wanting to go in, but after Fi told us about the medication that is sold in Malawi, Mark went in first and I think I waited a day. We went in most days and Fi and I washed in it as well. Good enough for the locals, then good enough for us. The first time we washed, there was alot of laughter indeed; (note to self – do not try and shave legs in the lake). We also went Scuba diving which we all enjoyed (first time off a boat for me).

Mark (???) went to bed early on the first night; Fi & I – what do you think!! Not a chance and off we went to Banapaya for a few drinks and a go on the bongo drums (well, Fi did). Sitting on the beach with a wee fire going, music being played and the drums going, that’s the life. A few more drinks down and time for home. They had locked us out!!! Fi found a way in and I had a fit of the giggles. We woke Mark up – less then quiet speaking and giggling. I think it was around 4am and we told Mark of the day we had planned…Out on very small boats, over to an Island (think we had to row) and have BBQ – all sounds good…but we had to be up at 9am….You guessed it; we woke at 9am and thought better of it. I think we may have drowned on the way over.

We did get Mark to the bar on the last night and I think we drank them out of house and bar. Bless, when hunger was mentioned the guys (and Fi) got in the kitchen and cooked up chicken and chips. It certainly hit the spot.

Up early the next day – our Malawi journey; a truck pulls up and we get on the back (and not just us). The truck was quickly loaded with bags of rice, 2 small children, many men and 2 ladies in the front with small babies. I think looking back I preferred that transport than the buses. I did not know a bus made for 12 could hold 27 and many bags. It is so economical that every seat must be filled before it will set off, but there are many sellers of food and drink that walk around the bus. Every bump in the road is felt and they go at some speed. I think the 2nd bus set off after 2 hours wait. This is all in a day’s work for Fi now.

Liwondi

Off the bus into the heat and we wait for Frederick to collect us. A welcome sight of a large safari truck turns up and we are quickly taken to his camp. So very peaceful and tranquil and we are shown to our tents; up on a platform with either single beds (Fi and I) or a double bed. Then there is the lovely viewing platform with many seats for guests. We had some Americans for company on our first night that left the next day. The food was good (all the food was & no deli belly) and the honesty bar well stocked.

After falling asleep to the noise of lots of animals, we left the tents to have a shower outside – how lovely indeed. The cubicles have been so well done, but you really do shower in the fresh air. We were then ushered up to the viewing platform and quickly realised why; the locals not far away had sent a herd of elephants our way. Amazing to be so close to the family herd and see from babies to adults. They were all making alot of noise, but soon settled down to eating the leaves from the trees and then off they went. We did our safari that day and saw more animals; warthogs, springboks, sea eagles, more elephant and giant poo! I think Fi is now an expert, but all you need to know is that the animal must be huge!

Back to camp where we all just chilled out. New guests had arrived who Mark made friends with during a night of bonding over alcohol in the honesty bar. The next day we did a river cruise and saw the hippos in the water and then the most amazing sight of an elephant swimming across. I did not see any crocodiles, but I knew they were not far away.

Before long, it was time to say goodbye. Lawrence was again late, but Fi had booked him at an earlier time than we needed. Back to Blantyre and onto Cape Town…..

Cape Town

Holiday Inn Hotel beckoned after a delay, quick meal and then both headed to our respective rooms. Up early the next day to jump on a bus tour, but I needed money first. Cash machine found and my bank card quickly stolen – it all happened so fast I can barely remember what happened, but a local guy pressed the cancel button while trying to pretend to be helpful and then ran off with it. No harm done as card last used buying Fi red wine and whiskey at J,Burg duty free (brought a very big smile to her face). Onto bus and we hopped off at Table Mountain. Up to the top (very quick) and then amazed by the panoramic views. Being Scottish, we felt it warm, but many others thought it too cold!! Lunch eaten and back down and onto the bus. We hopped off at the ‘posh part’ for a few drinks and just people watched.

Next day we had booked a wine farm tour in the Stellenbosch region. It was my birthday and the sun was shining. We picked up 3 Aussies and a fellow Brit. The Aussies had their thermals on, us Brits – t-shirts and flip flops. I was sharing my birthday with one of the Aussies ladies. First stop was cheese and wine…the cheese was delicious as was some of the wine. Onto a few more farms and a few more wines and then lunch. I then bought some dessert wine at the last farm and we returned feeling very tired. Again a quick meal and then off to sleep.

Mark was then up ubber early to go out diving with sharks. Not for me, so I had booked a trip over to Robben Island where Nelson Mandela was held for 18 yrs. Very humbling as the tour guide was an ex prisoner. Well worth the visit and I would recommend it to anyone. I also explored the V & A area and had some lunch. I then returned back to the hotel to find Mark had ordered a take away pizza and had gone to bed – poor wee soul was knackered after his very early start. We met the next day and I recommended going back to the V & A. Really good place with loads of shops and restaurants and we opted to have lunch in the food market; yum, yum indeed.

So thank you Fiona for arranging such a wonderful time for us in Malawi and I have a feeling I will return to that part of the world again. Hope you and Mariam will have a brilliant leaving trip and explore other parts of the country on route to leaving.

Editors Note – I am blonde for a reason…laptop charger had come a wee bit loose so computer hadn’t been charging but was given no warning (that’s my defence!!) Never mind…all’s well that ends well…

Laptop has just died on me…went off and doesn’t want to restart :-\  it’s trying…whirring away and then grinds to a halt…2 blog posts waiting too…one from Linsey on her and Mark’s visit to Malawi and “A weekend in Fatima”

I’ll take to Blantyre at the weekend and hope for the best!!

Deborah and Mary licking the bowl clean after chocolate cake mix

After baptism at river last Sunday

Pastor George up to his knees in Tangatze River

A driech day in Fatima

In the garden

Mice on a skewer…no thank you!

Wee Favour – who I helped to deliver 🙂

New shoes…a goodbye gift from the CMT students 🙂

Sharon, a first year student, grouping blood using the tile method
Some photos for you until laptop resurrects…
Great to have judy’s spare smart phone to access internet but no way I’m typing 2000 words on this key pad!! 🙂

These last 4 weeks (when not holidaying with Laura and Lucy!) have been spent in the male/female ward at Trinity Hospital with eight 1st year NMT students. It has been a great 4 weeks for them – lots of exposure to illness and disease and good practice with various nursing interventions. A bit swifter that our nurse training at home; the students are expected to complete competencies in cannulation, IV IM PO SC drug administration, catheterisation, NG tube insertion as well as the ‘basic’ nursing skills such as bed making, bathing, vital signs, admission and discharge of patients in their first placement. It’s a lot to cover in an 8 week placement, however, relatively easy to fulfil considering the student nurses are the ‘workforce’ of the ward. During tea breaks and lunch time (and any other time the only trained nurse leaves the ward) the students are ‘in charge’. Despite the scariness of this situation they have actually done very well…and taken it all in their stride. There does not seem to be any fear of causing harm or worry of making a mistake or drug error – perhaps due to the lack of governance, policy or protocol … Their confidence knows no bounds! And sometimes it is a case of reining the over confident in – when you do happen to have that extra pair of eyes at the back of your head…
Two tales which will stick in my mind…

“Fiona, we have a mental case in” [Did I really hear that, and did she really say that? Okay…straight to the point] ”In what way?” says I. “Ah, he has been very talkative, doesn’t know where he is and his family are scared that he will run away…It happened before, about 3 years ago and he has been well until now. So, we should give him 50mgs Chlorpromazine IV and 40mls 50% Dextrose push” (a wee favourite here). “I am going for lunch – will you be okay?” [Me] “Yes, think I can manage that”. [I won’t worry too much about the language barrier, a patient with an acute psychiatric episode and eight 1st year students on my hands…] The man had his recommended drugs and slept for 48 hours. He was discharged the following day. No psychiatric input/opinion here – just a mental case. On a more serious note – it did make me think – do we have a tendency to over diagnose and over treat at home? If this gentleman had been in the UK he may have been sectioned, commenced on medication, placed under psychiatric care and the stigma that may come with that…Perhaps this patient will go home and live a normal life for another 3 years without any incident…who knows…

On another fine day – During a ward round one morning I realised that a patient, who had been admitted the night before with alcohol intoxication, hadn’t been attended to by the students. When I entered the room the smell would have knocked you side-ways… Bed saturated with urine, all over the floor and the cannula had been dislodged so 5% Dextrose making a fine mess too. I asked 2 of the students, [A & M- names have been changed to protect the innocent!] to prepare for a bed bath. Thinking I had given a straightforward request I then moved my efforts to help another 2 students with an NG tube insertion. A few minutes later – “Madam, I am very sorry but I have an allergy and I cannot bed bath that patient” [A] “Oh, what type of allergy” [me] “Mmmm, to the alcohol Madam” [A] “Okay, what happens to you if you come into contact with alcohol A?” [me] “Ah, Madam, it is the smell {screwing up his face and fanning his nose}, I do not like it, even when my father takes the beer” “A, that is not an allergy – that is unpleasantness. I’m afraid it is also nursing, and you will find many unpleasant situations and odours in nursing”. Still looking at me vacantly…”So, Madam, have I still to do this bed bath? “A, do you know anyone who may like the smell of stale alcohol that would be happy to do the bed bath?” “Ah, no Madam” “Okay, find a cleaner with a mop, ask her to mop the floor and then gather the materials for the bed bath” Ten minutes later…”Madam, there is no cleaner on the ward just now” “Okay, just get me the mop A” [me] “YOU Madam??” [A] “Yes” [me] “YOU Madam, are going to clean the floor!?!” [A] After a lot of strange looks and muttering of breaths the floor was cleaned. There was no linen or towels; we managed to beg one sheet from another department and used a ‘damp dusting’ cloth to wash him. The procedure took all of 10 minutes – all the time explaining to the students that no-one deserves to lie in a cold and saturated bed through self-infliction or otherwise! All we could do was wash him with water, a well-used cloth and dry the mattress and put the dry sheet around him. Despite our limited resources it made a real difference to the patient’s comfort and I hope that I was able to stress that point to the students…we shall see…

On a lighter note! Laura, Lucy and I had a great 20 days in Malawi. They spent their first 6 days in Fatima; met all the children, Magdalena and her family, Christine (cleaner), Moffat (night guard), church folks and Sunday school kids, students, college staff and hospital staff. They had a busman’s holiday and spent their first 4 days painting Muona nursery school. The nursery takes 73 children each day and only has one room to accommodate the children. It was very dull with dark brick walls and plain white around the top. Laura and Lucy, with help from Gift, transformed the room – alphabet around the top with drawings underneath, paintings of teddy bears, mobile phones, clowns, buses, fish, sums, days of the week, numbers – you name it! Mr Allan (Muona Foundation Chairperson) and the nursery staff were very pleased with it and they had a ‘Thank you Ceremony’ on the Thursday where the children sang to them and they were given lovely paintings as a thank you – all worth it :) [easy for me to say!] {I will post a photograph of the ‘new’ nursery when Laura able to send me – hint hint L}

On the Friday morning we travelled by local bus from Fatima to Chikwawa district to reach Majete National Park – that was an experience for them both – back seat of the bus – great for stoor and a very bumpy ride 🙂

We reached Majete before lunchtime and Lucy was very impressed with our tent which was under a thatched shelter 10 feet high from the ground – which Laura was thankful for! We had a great game drive the following morning where we saw a lone elephant very close, lots of zebras, mpalas, waterbuck, nkudu, nyala, baboons, warthogs and bushpigs. We visited a waterfall where David Livingstone was said to have failed to ascend during his first expedition up the Zambezi River to reach Lake Nyasa. It was very cold – the coldest I have felt since leaving Scotland – my fingers were numb – think that I’m developing Reynaud’s disease in the index fingers…sure I’ll find out soon enough… The next day we did a Shire River Cruise – Laura, all the while, remembering Grandpa Jim’s words – “Don’t let any harm come to that girl!” [Laura] “Will we be safe Moyo? Are there any crocodiles Moyo? What about Hippo’s Moyo?” “Ah, Laura, do not worry – you will be very fine. We have a fine boat” [Moyo] Mmm, let us hope so…

GREAT TRIP – probably one of my best experiences in Malawi  We saw an elephant, buffalo and 4 metre crocodile all in a row at the water edge! That took our mind of the lurking Hippo’s underneath… Further up the river we saw 3 separate herds of elephants from baby size to big daddy size – it was magical, like something from Jungle Book – we were all speechless and I think that was the highlight of our trip  The next day involved a “Bush Walk” – lots of nice birds, lots of poo [ask us anything about poo tracks now – experts!] and we managed to get close to a couple of elephants who were pulling leaves down from the trees – we had to backtrack and make sure that we did not become surrounded by a herd [again, Grandpa Jim’s words ringing in our ears!].

After our 3 days in Majete, we hitched a lift back to Chikwawa town in the back of a pick-up truck [sore backs for 2 days] then travelled by minibus to Blantyre where we stopped for a wee hour of wi-fi for Lucy to speak to her best friend Sav and have some breakfast. The next mini-bus took us to Mulanje town where we spent 2 nights. It was a lovely journey passing though the tea plantations and Lucy was proposed to on the minibus by the conductor – Laura flabbergasted at the thought!! Thankfully Lucy took it all in her stride and just gave a wee giggle.

“We are looking for Kara O’Mula Lodge?” [me] “Ah, just come out of the bus depot and turn left, it is there” [man] “Thank you” [me] 45 minutes and {what must have been} 500 m ascent later we were puffing our way up a very steep hill with 3 rucksacks in tow [and those of you that know Laura know that she does not pack lightly] to reach Kara O’Mula… ”It’s just round this corner” [me] “How do you know?” [Laura] “I can feel it in my bones, honestly” [me] “Aye, I can feel it in my bones, and back, and knees, and feet too!!” [Laura]

Reached it eventually…bags unpacked ‘properly’ and we could walk around the room standing upright – result! We enjoyed a nice glass of red wine and a good meal that night. Mulanje is the highest mountain range in Malawi with the summit reaching over 3000m – a bit too adventurous for a day trip – so we decided to trek up to Likibulha Falls which is about 1800 m above sea level [felt that we had walked half that height the day before just to reach the Lodge!]

The walk starts at Likibulha Forest Reserve which is about 10km from Mulanje town so we travelled to the Reserve by Shapa – taxi bike. Laura and Lucy both loved the bikes…again, Grandpa Jim’s words ringing in our ears… “Don’t let that lassie out of your sight!” [Laura] “Right Fiona, you go first, we’ll put Lucy in the middle and I’ll stay at the back” “Aye, that’s a good plan” [me] What were we thinking?? The first uphill – Lucy’s driver sped past the two of us! That will happen when someone is half your weight!  Thank goodness she had a cerise pink rucksack on her back – we kept catching glimpses of her before rounding another bend, going uphill, then downhill… Thankfully we reached our destination safely [5 mins after Lucy] – Lucy was waiting for us; Shapa driver keeping guard – not perturbed in the slightest – so proud of her! On the way back, we bought some curios, paintings and jewellery then the rain started… Laura and Lucy quite annoyed about this as Scotland was having a heat wave at this point. What could we do? Sit under a thatched shelter and eat chipsee (chips to you and I) until it had eased off…Lucy had 2 bowls, that cycling is hard work 🙂 Getting back on the bikes, we headed back to Mulanje town…this time caked in muck from the bike spray and soaked to the skin by the rain – honestly, that few days has prepared me well for coming home weather wise!

After our 2 days in Mulanje we travelled to Cape Maclear – my most favourite place in Malawi, after Fatima! Just a 2 and a half hour wait for our pre-booked driver to appear! Not bad by Malawi standards. 8 hours later we reached Cape Maclear – Laura not very impressed at this point [legs stiff, bum sore – and on her birthday too!]…Lucy getting a wee bit bored with the travelling too. This is when I realise that I have become accustomed to long, monotonous journeys in relatively little comfort – I wasn’t too perturbed. We checked into our room, ate and fell into bed. The next day when they saw the view of the Lake and the chilled atmosphere of Cape Maclear they knew that the long arduous journey had been worth it… Although Laura now worrying a wee bit about how easy it will be to reach Lilongwe Airport 5 days later…on time! We had a lovely 4 days – sunbathing, swimming, walking through the market, buying more chtenge and curios, visiting the health clinic for Bilharzia (Bilratsia to Laura) medication!?!, eating nice food, drinking nice wine/cokes for Lucy!, playing cards, drafts and bawa and playing the bongo drums at night by camp fire at Banapaya…. A great 4 days, we reflected on all that we had done and the experiences and laughs that we had had…not thinking about Monday 15th as that was their going home day 😦

Laura’s birthday was 10th July [the day of the 8 hour journey] so we didn’t celebrate well on the day. In my wisdom I thought that it would be a great idea to treat both Laura and Lucy to an “Introduction to Scuba Diving” lesson as a special treat for her birthday… Mmm, she hated it. I felt terrible, not just because she was terrified, panicked, nauseous and greetin’ but because I know that she will get me back…probably with a parachute jump or something equally horrifying!! Really, really sorry Laura!!

She did it tho eventually – for about 7 mins and then decided enough was enough. Upward thumb sign to Patrick “Am, wantin oot!” When we got to the surface, she said “Is that all the fish? Have we seen them all? Can we get out now?” She’d had enough and wanted her feet back on solid ground/boat.

Lucy, Patrick (instructor) and I went back down. Lucy loved it and was like a wee fish down at 10 metres. I didn’t let go of her hand once and could feel my chest bursting with pride every time she gave me the ‘ok’ sign. Her (too large) mask filled with water at one point and she was able to point to her mask, give the ‘I’ve got a problem’ sign and then remembered what the instructor had taught her and was able to clear her mask and continue on with the dive – a complete STAR!!! Unfortunately the water was not as clear as I’ve seen it on previous dives but we still managed to see lots of small cichlids which are unique to Lake Malawi – so a good place for her first dive. She is home with a log book – you may have a new member soon Bo’ness SAC!!

She also bought a Bongo Drum from the beach guys and has brought it home – Laura will be cursing me as I type I’m sure…”oatse maso, pepani”

So, it is now Sunday evening and they left Malawi 13 days ago…I keep finding myself thinking…”4 weeks ago tonight we were…” “3 weeks ago tonight we were doing…” “2 weeks ago tonight we were eating great pizza in Gekko Lounge and playing cards – which they beat me at every time

It was truly fantastic having them here and that is now the last of my visitors to Malawi so I am definitely on the last leg of my Malawi Journey now…

Judy is on holiday for 12 days (well deserved – her first holiday in ages as she didn’t have any break between leaving her DN post and arriving here in February!) so I am back on my lonesome – wonder how I’ll get on…think that I have got used to the company and will miss her… The plus point – you may get another blog posting before the end of the week – “A weekend in Fatima” …